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Introduction to Iceland

Reykjavík and other settlements

Reykjavík is the capital city of Iceland situated on the south west coast. The city is sat inside a natural inlet, being sheltered from much of the easterly winds, which also acts as a natural harbour for much of the trade and cruise ship activity. Reykjavík and the Capital Region holds 2/3rds of the entire population of Iceland at around 233,000 and yet this sizeable city almost feels like a sleepy fishing village depending on which street you walk down. The main shopping street is Laugavegur which lies perpendicular to the impressive Hallgrímskirkja church sitting high above all the modest small houses surrounding it (74.5 metres/ 244 feet).

Other notable towns include Akureyri in the north of Iceland with around 20,000 inhabitants, Selfoss in the south with around 7,000 inhabitants and Heimaey on the Westman Islands with around 4,000 inhabitants. So you can see that once you get out of the Capital Region Iceland reverts back to mainly small villages, fishing town and farmsteads. But don’t worry, aside from the highlands you’re never more than a few hours drive of the next petrol station and village with its own unique characteristics.

Around 25% of the country is protected either as nature reserve, national park or UNESCO World Heritage status (15% of the country). The local Icelandic population and government alike care for their environment deeply with speculative plans to create a Highland National Park which would bring the protected areas of the country to nearly 50%.

In regard to environmental efforts, the Icelandic government have set some of the most ambitious targets in the world, to be Carbon Neutral by 2040. Considering 95% of their energy production already comes from renewable sources (Geothermal and Hydro mainly) this is considered quite an achievable goal. Especially with the government’s intention to plant at least 4 million new trees each year, and their new carbon capture technology, CarbFix.

Which tour companies should I use when in Iceland?

This is an easy one to answer but a hard one for you to achieve. As I mentioned, Iceland is very new to the tourism game so there are plenty of ‘tour companies’ out there just trying to capitalise on the current boom. Some are seasoned locals wanting to share their passion with you. Others are more like shepherds herding cattle. In my opinion, the easiest way to find a good tour company, whether that’s in downtown Reykjavík or in the remote fishing village of Höfn, is to get onto Tripadvisor. It’s used in abundance in Iceland and does a good job of weeding out the poor quality operators. You can learn just as much from the way a company responds to reviews as from the review itself.

History of Iceland

Egilsstaðir in the Eastfjords is within easy reach of many of the deep fjords and scarred sea cliffs. There’s also plenty of wildlife in the area to keep you occupied on your hikes, including the oft-shy reindeer.

In the north of Iceland, Mývatn with its bubbling hot pools and Husavík with its whale watching options will be a great place to to stop off as you continue your journey around the country.

The Westfjords in the north west of Iceland is the oldest part of the country and boasts the lowest tourist numbers. It’s worth spending around 4 days in this forgotten part of the country for the views alone.

Snæfellsnes, in the west of Iceland is often referred to as ‘little Iceland’ since it seems to have everything the rest of Iceland has but in a more condensed fashion. From glaciers and volcanoes to broken sea cliffs, seals and incredible restaurants. Not a bad way to end your trip to Iceland if this is the last stop on the tour.

Along the south coast you can hunt for the northern lights from the viewing room at Hotel Rangá or enjoy the some horse riding at the Skálakot Luxury Manor. Although Hotel Rangá has become a little dated with most decorations added in the 70s and 80s, each room has its own world theme. The owner will also undoubtedly welcome you personally during dinner. Don’t forget to sign up for the Northern Lights alerts overnight too.

In the south east of Iceland you can stop off at the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. This empty part of Iceland is known for its glacier hikes and ice cave tours. The 4 star hotel utilises local produce to create some of the most unique dishes in the south coast of Iceland. It’s not too far away from the iceberg filled glacier lagoon too.

For full seclusion but plenty of adventure you can continue travelling north east to find Deplar Farms. This remote farm boasts luxury service mixed with hand picked hikes, kayaking, skiing, cycling and fishing options. This is a favourite of the rich and famous. Even Will Smith apparently spent some time here.

As you travel north west be sure to check out Heydalur Hotel in the Westfjords. This is as remote as you’ll get in Iceland and still have a good level of hotel service. During the day you can go horse riding or kayaking. In the early evening try out their naturally heated pool and at night keep your eyes peeled for the elusive Arctic fox as well as the Northern Lights. The resident parrot will be welcome entertainment during dinner as Stella, the owner, will check in with you to make sure all is satisfactory with your locally caught catch of the day.

Finally, in the Snæfellsnes peninsula in the west of Iceland there is a hidden gem called Hotel Búðir. Nestled beneath the Snæfellsjökull volcano, this luxury hotel offers seclusion first and luxury second. A perfect spot to go on evening walks through the lava fields in summer or hunt for the Northern Lights in winter. You can even pop over to the well photographed black church, Búðakirkja, as the sun sets for the perfect light.

Arnarstapi in the Snæfellsnes peninsula is just one of the many attractions of this part of the country, but it’s often the most talked about. A series of volcanic eruptions crafted uncountable basalt columns that formed the sea cliffs. With weathering and wave damage these previously strong walls of basalt rock have cracked and broken, making the easy hike along them exhilarating and humbling.

Iceland is also filled with cooled lava caves but none come close to the size and beauty of the multi-coloured Raufarhólshellir, more commonly known as the Lava Tunnel. Being just 30 minutes drive from the capital city many people try to squeeze a trip to the Blue Lagoon in on the same day. Both are worth the visit!

If you prefer to relax on holiday you can bathe in any of the hundreds of hot pools across the country. My favourites are the naturally forming Secret Lagoon and the spa-like Blue Lagoon.

Animal lovers will enjoy horseback riding through lava fields at Skálakot horse farm on the small but mighty Icelandic horse.

In summer many hiking trails open up in the the Highlands of Iceland. For example, the 3 to 4 day Laugavegur trail boasts the best views of your life.

Another mainstay of summer is whale watching, which can be done in any number of ports across the country including Reykjavík, Husavík, Olafsvík and Akureyri.

Puffin spotting tends to coincide with whale season. There’s plenty of places to spot these little guys but perhaps the volcanic Westman Islands in the south is the best.

From September to April you can go Northern Lights hunting any night that is clear. It can be done anywhere in Iceland though somewhere without unnatural light and obstructions are obviously best. 

Dairy is a big part of the traditional Iceland diet with a unique yoghurt/ cheese called Skyr being a daily source of protein for many. Mixed with locally picked berries and you’ll be craving this little yoghurt dish long after leaving Iceland.

Fish is another big part of the diet in Iceland, considering the fishing industry is a big part of the economy. Cod, salmon, trout and Arctic charr are the tastiest of the local catch but many restaurants will simply serve what was caught that day so be prepared to stretch your pallet to skate, dogfish, wolf fish, catfish, redfish and other fun variants.

Although many things can be grown outside in Iceland, there are limitations. This is where the geothermally powered greenhouses come in to play. The Friðheimar tomato farm for example can produce over 1 tonne of tomatoes per day, even in winter, thanks to this sustainable and cheap energy source. Strawberries, cucumber, bell peppers, fresh cut flowers and even things like bananas, cocoa beans and coffee beans are known to be grown across the country.

The weird and wonderful options are also available in certain restaurants across the country. Things like puffin, minke whale, reindeer, horse, ram’s testicles and the dreaded rotted shark are all easily found in the more touristy areas of the country.

Regardless of your thoughts on eating some or all of the foods that Icelanders offer while you visit, please do keep an air of respect when turning things down. Iceland, in the past, was a harsh place with long winters. After volcanic eruptions, flash floods and super storms you would eat what you could find. So when trying to slurp down the slimy fermented Greenland shark take a second to imagine the hardship the locals may have been going through when they first attempted to eat this smelly meat.

That means you will be often interacting with knowledgeable and passionate veterans of the trade rather than a seasonal hire like in other countries. Many will likely have degrees or qualifications in the earth sciences like geology, volcanology and glaciology but have chosen a guiding career as it can be more lucrative than other jobs and gives them the chance to be outside in the elements more often. Having this type of companion by your side adds an extra dimension to your trip for sure.

There are plenty of big bus companies to choose from that leave from Reykjavik if budget is an issue. There is also a robust local bus system in Reykjavik that can get you around cheaply. Beware though, most busses don’t sell tickets. You’ll have to go to a local shop to pick up a bunch of tickets instead.

Taxis are expensive but plentiful. Assume that a short trip from one part of Reykjavik to the other will set you back around $30. To take a taxi from the Airport to Reykjavik will be closer to $120, though there are airport shuttle services that are much cheaper for around $40.

For those wanting to skip the long drive around the country there is a modest Icelandic domestic flight schedule that can get you to towns like Akureyri in the north, Egilsstaðir in the east and Ísafjörður in the Westfjords. The flights are understandably quick but surprisingly cheap too. You can get a single flight to Akureyri for $70 on a good day. That’s less than a taxi from the airport. 

However, if a winter wonderland is what you are seeking the most then Christmas and New Year in Iceland is really quite special. Christmas markets, impressive Christmas lights and plenty of little festivals make Reykajvik and Iceland a great place to spend time with the family. Just keep in mind that on the 24th, 25th and 1st of January you will be very unlikely to find a tour guide or activity to fill the day as most Icelanders will not accept work on these days.

The Summer season (June, July and August) boasts 24 hours of daylight, known as the Midnight Sun. In fact, on the 21st of June you can watch the sun set and rise again in one fluid motion around midnight. The country is warm and bursting with life. The wild, purple Alaskan Lupine dominates the landscape. Sheep roam free and the migrating birds, including the puffins have returned to the shores.

Whales also come to Iceland to mate around the entire country and the Highland roads open up to 4×4 travel. For an adventurous time on the glacier this is the best time too as the ice takes on a crusty layer that makes walking and climbing much easier. Long hikes in the countryside take precedence at this time of year and you are just as likely to interact with a local Icelander on holiday as you are a tourist.

The shoulder months (April, May, September, October and November) are some of the best months to come in my opinion. They are very quiet and cheap compared to the winter or summer and yet have most of the same benefits.

April is often still snow covered but with longer days to enjoy daytime activities. The Northern Lights are still possible at the start of the month too.

May enjoys 24 hours of daylight and the whales and puffins have arrived by this point.

September and October are statistically the best months of the year to see the Northern Lights. September especially is much warmer than many expect too.

November is this writer’s personal favourite time of the year, especially the first two weeks. You can hunt for the Northern Lights in the evening, discover ice caves during the day and enjoy a winter wonderland aesthetic without any crowds sullying the view. Also, one of Iceland’s biggest festivals, Iceland Airwaves, also runs in the first week of the month. The main thing to question about November, and indeed all of winter, is the weather. It can get quite cold, which is mostly fine. But the storms that intermittently hit Iceland in winter may cause a few cancellation days. This is all part of the adventure though!

The great thing about Iceland is there is always more to see. If you want a waterfall all to yourself you may just get lucky if you ask the right questions. You want a late night tour to get a last minute Northern Lights hunt going? Then the hotel owners or tour guides are often more than willing to help. If you want the trip to be handled from airport to airport then invest in a private service from a local DMC. They will know the difference between ‘promising the world’ and ‘genuine quality’.

I recommend starting your trip at the Retreat at the Blue Lagoon spa. Get a private taxi to the newly opened 5 Star Edition hotel. Jump on a private tour to the glaciers in the south east of the country and ride horses in empty lava fields. I also recommend visiting the 2010 Eyjafjallajokull volcanic eruption site. But the only way to do this is on a super jeep and snowmobile over the top. You want your very own blue ice cave? Then take a helicopter tour to the distant glaciers up in the mountains.

In short, there are plenty of ways to enjoy yourself in luxury but remember, Iceland’s untouched and wild landscape is the main attraction here. The hotels are unique and impressive but take the term ‘luxury’ with a pinch of salt.

The locals may come across as standoffish at first but this is more a product of how their language is structured than any level of impoliteness. The majority of locals love to talk to new people. The approval rating for immigrant integration in Iceland is at 92% approval and the tourists are seen as a welcome source of income. So basically you are in safe hands with one of the local Viking descendants leading you around the country. Be prepared to learn a few stories from the chirpy locals and don’t be surprised if you get invited out on an adventure or two once you’ve befriended the right people.

Weather in Iceland

Visiting Iceland soon? See below for the latest weather forecast for Iceland.

Despite being close to the Arctic Circle, Iceland has a temperate climate. That means the winters are warmer than they should be and the summers are a little wetter. The average temperature in winter is similar to that of New York despite being much further north, 66 Degrees compared to 40 Degrees. This is thanks to the Gulf Stream sending up warm water and air to the island year round. As long as this process continues, Iceland will have unseasonably warm winters with a mix of snow and rain. More so in the winter, but year round, one thing to consider is the wind. You might get breathless days if you’re lucky, but Iceland is certainly known for its wind. So even on the warmest day of the year, if there’s a stiff breeze, then it might be time to put on a cosy hat and warm sweater. Overall, in winter you should expect around zero degrees Celsius with the odd day dropping as low as minus 10 degrees, and in summer you should expect around 15 degrees Celsius with the odd day reaching plus 20 degrees.

ICELAND WEATHER